Dining Paradise

For an average combined six glorious weeks, patio season is upon us, and one of Calgary's best garden patio's is back. But even in cooler months when patio doors are locked shut and the outdoor spread lay bare, Bonterra Trattoria has no problems keeping guests warm year round with a top shelf selection of wine, cuts of succulent, Italian prepared meat and nearly adoptable staff.

Is it just me, or over the past few years have you noticed prices in Calgary restaurants and bars have been subtly creeping upwards? You agree? Of course you do. And yes, you are right. The cost hike around town is about as subtle as a stucco bathtub. Thank heavens there are still a few places one can expect a fair shake as opposed to a shakedown.

One of the best is located at 1016 8 Street SW. True, the Bonterra Trattoria is not the least expensive dining spot in Connaught; and yes, the ability to put a noticeable dent in one's credit M.O. is not beyond the Pale. But it doesn't have to be. A good friend and gourmet/ gourmand heavyweight claims it might just be the best bet in the city. Good deals these days being as slim as an anorexic, I believe she undoubtedly has a point. Whether you are in the Bonterra Trattoria to just sit at the bar or go in for the full-meal-deal, give consideration to the first section of the menu.

More than just food for thought this portion of what's available is so utterly bang-on, even thinking about it now I am tempted to put off this writing, go on down and knock off a couple dozen of the Cerignola olives from the Abruzzi. Then again there is also a sun dried Moroccan number with a chili flake, lightly salted medium bitter mouth-puckering taste coming to mind that may be just the item to spice up the evening. A bit of bread, a little red, and we're good to go.

Then, if you have no other desire then to enter into a deal with agents representing far darker regions, so as to be whisked off into paradise before your normally destined departure, then check out the Crepelle D'Anatra. Take the offer. Seal the deal. Worry about excommunication another time. If you are later cast down into hell, at least you can rejoice that the B.T. Crepelle D'Anatra once passed your way.

As for the mains-meatier fare has the edge over the water based variety. Not that they are less in quality. Think: Salmon Saltimbocca. Or maybe: Pesca Spada Grigiana. Try a bite. Close your eyes. Savour the same. Open them. Then prepare to ascend into the Rapture. Trumpets and harps transcendent. Just so.

Of course there's beef. More specifically, there is Guancia Di Vitello. Veal cheeks braised four hours before their appointment with your destiny. Most of us will be too young to remember this, but back in what our ancestors called the Dirty '30s, veal in Alberta was often disguised as chicken because supposedly you couldn't give it away. Veal disguised as chicken? Sweet Savior scorned, whipped and crucified! To think about it is to weep. And in this case thinking about it is enough to drive me to drink.

So, let us go, you and I to the wine list. Divided into two very good sections (one for me, one for the more exalted tax bracket), we see upon careful examination both are more than adequate. Better news yet! On the immediate side of items most of us are likely to pursue, said choices are also of a most reasonable price. More so, and risking raised eyebrows there are some selections that may even be under priced (excuse my big mouth while I go out and fall on my centurion's sword). But at least for the time being let us give praise for the oversight. There isn't a wine poured by the glass priced above $11. My usual tipple here is going off at $8 a carafe. Right up there with the Miracle at Canaan because usually I am being gouged $12 for the same thing elsewhere. Important? You do the math, plus GST, and tip. In theory I could be saving thousands of dollars every year should I choose to do so.

The perfect dichotomy of being totally non-intrusive one moment and right there the next when needed. Totally. It is always a pleasure to dine with this assurance of their assistance. Dining can and should always be enhanced with this kind of interplay. That, Martha Stewart would say, is a good thing. But in the case of the staff here it is a gross understatement.

So let's go one better. I think what we have here may have been sent to us from somewhere else. How so? Once you have eaten here it is simple to say these are the kind of people you would be blessed to meet anywhere. And we are. They just happen to be bringing a little bit of light into your life at the Bonterra Trattoria.

 

Written by MJ Finner
Photography by Keith Diamond